No Water Coming Out of Shower Head? Fix & Troubleshooting Tips

When there’s no water coming out of the shower head, it stops your morning in its tracks. The good news is that most cases come down to a handful of fixable issues. In many homes, the culprit is mineral buildup inside the shower head, a stuck diverter valve at the tub spout, a closed shutoff, or a worn cartridge inside the shower valve. This guide shows you how to spot the difference fast and apply the right fix. This guide will also cover how to fix shower no hot water issues and tips on cleaning of your shower head to restore proper hot and cold water flow. You’ll learn how to test water pressure, descale hard water deposits, troubleshoot diverters and cartridges, and decide when it’s time to call a professional plumber.

We’ll start with quick, high-impact checks you can do in a minute, then move into step-by-step repairs and practical prevention. Along the way, you’ll see data-backed tips to save water and lower bills, plus real case studies and common scenarios like “no water in shower but sinks are fine.” Whether you’re a renter, DIYer, or homeowner, follow this flow to restore your shower water and keep it strong.

No Water Coming Out of Shower Head: Quick Diagnosis

When a shower stops working, don’t jump straight to a full teardown. If you’re asking, “why is there no water coming out of my shower?” or notice “no water in shower but sinks are fine,” a few 60second checks often point to the fix. You’ll also want to quickly learn whether the problem is only at the shower, or in the whole home.

60-second checks: valves, diverter, and shower arm

Use this mini routine to rule out simple causes first.

Make sure your main home shutoff and any bathroom shutoff (angle stops) are fully open. If a water valve is even partway closed, it can cut flow of water at the shower.
If you have a tub spout with a diverter, switch the diverter up and down several times. Feel and listen for a firm “engagement.” If water keeps pouring from the spout in shower mode, the diverter may be stuck or worn.
Unscrew the shower head by hand or with a strap wrench. For modern setups with sensors, even if water sensors removed shower head, you can still perform a bare-arm test. Wrap the finish with a cloth to protect it. Turn on the shower briefly with the head removed. If strong water comes out of the bare shower arm, the shower head is clogged. If little or no water comes out of the bare arm, the issue is upstream (diverter, cartridge, or supply).

These checks give you a quick read on whether you’re dealing with a clog, a diverter, or a supply/valve problem.

Compare fixtures: sink, tub, other showers (local vs. whole-home)

Now decide if the problem is local (just this shower) or global (the whole house):

If your sink, tub, and other showers have normal flow, the problem is in this shower assembly. Focus on the shower head, diverter, or cartridge.
If you notice low water pressure or weak flow in many fixtures, suspect the main water supply, the water pressure regulator (pressure-reducing valve), or municipal work in the area. Test pressure with a gauge (details below).
If only hot water is affected (for example, no hot but cold works), look at the mixing valve, hot side of the cartridge, or water heater shutoffs and sediment.

While cleaning the head and checking upstream valves can solve many problems, sometimes upgrading your fixtures is the most effective long-term solution. High-quality shower heads and fa u cets can dramatically improve water flow and consistency in your bathroom.

Interactive tool: “Answer 3 questions to pinpoint the fault”

You can use this simple three-question path as your on-page “quiz.”

With the shower head removed, is flow from the bare shower arm strong?

Yes → The shower head or its flow restrictor/screen is likely clogged. Clean or replace it.
No → Go to question 2.

In shower mode, does water keep coming from the tub spout?

Yes → The diverter is failing or blocked.
No → Go to question 3.

Do all other fixtures have good pressure?

Yes → The shower valve cartridge or an upstream shutoff in this bathroom may be the issue.
No → Check home water pressure and the main shutoff/regulator; you may have a whole-home supply problem.

Safety and tools checklist

Before you take apart parts of the shower, make a quick safety check and gather a few tools.

Shut off water at the fixture or main before removing valves or the diverter. For quick head removal only, you can leave water on but keep the handle off until you test.
Protect finishes with a soft cloth. Use a strap wrench instead of a metal wrench on plated parts.
Have these tools handy: adjustable wrench, strap wrench, plumber’s tape (PTFE), white vinegar, a soft brush or old toothbrush, a small bucket, rags, and a pressure gauge that threads onto a hose bib.

Clogged or Calcified Shower Head (Hard Water Buildup)

If you’re asking, “Why is there no water through my shower head?” the most common reason is mineral deposits that clog tiny passages in the head. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), mineral buildup from hard water is a common cause of reduced water flow in showerheads.

Signs and simple tests

A clogged head often shows these signs:

The spray is uneven, sputtering, or down to a trickle.
You see white or green mineral flakes on the nozzles.
The bare-arm test (head removed) gives good flow, but the head on gives poor flow. That points to a head clog rather than a supply problem.

Even if you clean your bathroom often, cleaning the shower head needs its own routine. Scale can harden inside the head body where you can’t see it.

Descale step-by-step: vinegar soak or descaling agent

It’s a simple fix that quickly restores flow and helps you improve water delivery through your shower head.

Turn off the shower handle. Unscrew the shower head from the arm. Keep the rubber washer safe.
Check for a screen or flow restrictor at the inlet. Remove it carefully and note the order of parts so you can put them back later.
Soak the head in warm white vinegar for 30–60 minutes. For heavy scale, up to a few hours. Use a container deep enough to submerge the inlets and nozzles.
After soaking, use a soft brush to scrub the nozzles and inlet. A toothpick can help clear individual jets. Avoid pins or metal that can damage silicone nozzles.
Rinse the head well. Clean the screen separately under running water. If you see large flakes, tap them out gently.
Wrap 4–6 turns of plumber’s tape on the shower arm threads. Reinstall the head and washer. Hand-tighten, then snug slightly with a strap wrench.
Turn on the shower to flush. If flow is still weak, repeat the soak or consider replacement.

Tip: If your head has a shower hose (handheld), disconnect and flush the hose too. Hoses can hold debris.

When to replace the shower head (GPM, WaterSense, compatibility)

If descaling only helps a little or the head is old, replacement is simple. When you pick a new head:

Look for the GPM rating (gallons per minute). Many homes do well with 1.75–2.5 GPM. Models with WaterSense certification use 2.0 GPM or less and are tested to maintain good spray at standard pressure.
Choose heads with anti-clog silicone nozzles. They are easier to keep clean by wiping the tips.
Make sure the threads match your shower arm. In the U.S., most arms use 1/2inch NPT.
If you prefer a handheld, check for a sturdy shower hose and a bracket that suits your height and reach.
For very hard water, a head with a simple flow path is easier to keep clean.

Can a clogged shower head stop all water flow?

Yes. Severe mineral buildup can block the inlet screen and internal passages in the water supply line and water pipes so much that almost no flow of hot water or cold water gets through. If the bare-arm test gives good flow but the shower head does not, the head is the problem. Descale it or replace it to restore proper water flow.

Diverter and Valve Problems (Tub Spout Diverter, Shower Cartridge)

If water keeps pouring from the tub spout when you turn on the shower, the issue is often the diverter. If there’s no flow at all even with the head removed, the problem may be the shower valve cartridge or a hidden shutoff.

Diverter symptoms and quick tests

You likely have a diverter issue if:

Water still flows from the tub spout in shower mode, or the stream is split.
The diverter lever is stuck or loose.
You feel poor flow at the head while the tub spout dribbles in shower mode.
The diverter worked yesterday, but today the lever moves with no effect.

To confirm, switch back to tub mode. Run the water for a few seconds to flush debris. Switch to shower mode again. If it still won’t send full flow to the head, plan for cleaning or replacement.

Fix or replace a faulty diverter

Many tub spout diverters wear or jam with debris. You can often fix this with a simple replacement.

Identify the spout type. Some spouts are threaded (unscrew from the pipe). Others are slipon with a set screw underneath.
Turn off water and protect the spout finish. For slipon types, loosen the set screw and pull the spout straight off. For threaded types, twist counterclockwise. Use a strap wrench if needed.
Inspect the diverter gate and any Orings. If the gate is worn or the seal is torn, replacement is the best fix.
Clean the pipe stub and check the wall opening for leaks.
Install the new spout of the same type. For threaded types, add plumber’s tape on the male threads and tighten until the spout sits flush and straight. For slipon types, align and tighten the set screw firmly.
Test by running the tub, then lifting the diverter. You should feel a clean switch and full flow to the shower arm.

If you have a threehandle style or an inwall diverter, replacement may be more involved and could require access behind the wall. In that case, consider a qualified plumber, especially if you see signs of a leak.

Cartridge/pressure-balancing valve issues

Inside most singlehandle showers is a cartridge that mixes hot and cold and often includes a pressure-balancing part. If the cartridge fails, you can get no flow, only cold or only hot, or sudden swings in temperature.

Here are signs the cartridge or mixing parts are the problem:

No water at the shower even though other fixtures in the bathroom are fine.
Only cold water or only hot water at the shower.
The handle turns but feels gritty or catches.
You had recent plumbing work and soon after the shower lost flow (debris can clog cartridge ports).

Basic replacement steps look like this:

Turn off water to the shower. This may be at local shutoffs behind the trim (if present) or at the main.
Remove the handle and trim. Take a clear photo so you can put it back in the same order.
Pull the retaining clip or screws that hold the cartridge. Wiggle the cartridge straight out. Mineral deposits can make it stubborn; a puller tool helps. If it’s stuck, this may be a job for a pro to avoid damage.
Inspect for debris in the valve body. Flush briefly with water (cover the opening with a rag to catch splash).
Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation. Replace the clip/screws, trim, and handle. Turn water on and test.
Adjust the antiscald limiter (if present) to control the hot range. This is a safety stop so scalding hot water doesn’t burst out. Keep it set to safe temps.

Tip: If you hear a sudden improvement after you remove and reinstall the cartridge, you may have cleared a blockage. Still, if the part shows wear, replacement is wise.

How do I know if my diverter valve is bad?

If the lever won’t redirect water to the shower head, or the tub spout keeps leaking a stream in shower mode, even a leak can indicate the diverter is failing. Issues like worn seals or debris buildup may be the cause. You can first try cleaning the diverter before replacement to restore . A new diverter spout is a quick, lowcost fix in most homes if cleaning doesn’t help.

Supply, Shutoff, and Pressure Issues (Low Water Pressure)

Sometimes the problem isn’t at the shower at all. A closed shutoff, weak supply pressure, or debris in the line can stop or slow flow.

Check angle stops, anti-scald limiters, and hidden shutoffs

Start with the basics:

Check angle stops (local shutoff valves) at the sink and shower if accessible. Make sure they’re fully open. Some valves require a firm turn to open all the way.
Look at the antiscald limiter behind the shower trim. If set too low, it can limit the hot range so much that mixed flow is weak. Adjust according to the product’s instructions and keep safe temperatures in mind.
In some homes, there’s a hidden shutoff for the shower in an access panel. Make sure it’s open.
If a contractor recently did work, a valve may have been left partly closed by accident.

Home water pressure test (with PSI gauge)

If many fixtures feel weak, test your water pressure with a simple gauge. This takes five minutes and gives a clear answer.

Thread a pressure gauge onto an outdoor hose bib or a laundry faucet.
Make sure no water is running inside. Open the valve to pressurize the gauge.
Read the PSI. Typical homes run well around 45 to 60 PSI. Under 40 PSI often feels weak. Over 80 PSI is too high and can stress pipes and cause leaks.
If pressure is low, check your main shutoff and the water pressure regulator (also called a PRV). If pressure is very low across the home, call your water provider to ask about supply issues in your area, or contact a plumber to evaluate the PRV.
If pressure is good at the gauge but low only at the shower, focus on the shower head, diverter, or cartridge.

Table: Typical PSI ranges and what to do

Measured Pressure (PSI)	What You’ll Notice	Action
Under 30	Very weak flow	Check main/shutoffs; call utility; have a plumber assess regulator or supply
30–40	Low-pressure shower	Clean/replace head; check valves; consider regulator adjustment
45–60	Normal range	Troubleshoot shower parts (head, diverter, cartridge)
60–80	Strong but acceptable	Ensure secure connections; watch for spray splash
Over 80	Too high; risk of leaks	Install or adjust a pressure reducing valve; protect fixtures

Isolated hot vs. cold failures and water heater factors

If there’s no hot water flow in the shower but cold works fine, check:

The water heater shutoff valves. Make sure the hot outlet is open.
Signs of sediment at the heater. Heavy sediment can slow hot flow. Flushing the heater is a standard maintenance step.
The mixing valve in the shower. A stuck balance spool or clogged hot port can block hot water.
If only hot water is weak across many fixtures, you may have a heater or hot line issue.

If cold water supply is the only problem at the shower, check the cold side shutoff (if present) and cartridge ports.

Sediment, debris, and line blockages

Debris from old pipes, a broken main, or recent work can clog screens and ports:

Remove the shower head and flush the line briefly. Catch debris in a bucket or rag.
Clean any inlet screens in the head or the shower hose.
If the problem started right after a repair, debris may have lodged in the cartridge ports. Inspect and clean or replace the cartridge as needed.
In older homes, scale inside pipes can narrow passages. A plumber can assess if a section of pipe is restricted.

Prevention and Maintenance (Keep Flow Strong)

Restoring flow is great, but keeping it strong saves you headaches later. A little regular cleaning of your shower goes a long way, especially in hard water areas.

Monthly cleaning routine and anti-scale strategies

You don’t need special chemicals for routine care:

Once a month, wipe rubber nozzles with a damp cloth. This keeps soft deposits from hardening.
Every 3–6 months, do a vinegar bag soak without removing the head. Fill a zip bag with vinegar, tie it around the head so the nozzles soak, and leave it for an hour.
Rinse and run the shower to flush. Clean the screen if your head has one.
If you notice soap scum buildup, a gentle dish soap and warm water solution helps without harming finishes.

These simple steps help prevent clogs, increase the life of the head, and keep pressure in your shower consistent.

Water quality upgrades: softeners and filters

If you live in a region with very hard water, scale will clog your shower head faster. You can check a U.S. water hardness map or ask your utility. In very hard areas, consider:

A water softener to reduce minerals across the whole home. This can reduce scale in shower heads, faucets, and even water heaters.
A pointofuse filter for the shower line. Some inline filters catch sediment and scale particles before they reach the head.

These upgrades improve your shower experience and reduce how often you need to descale.

Renter-friendly and accessibility tips

You can keep your shower in top shape without permanent changes:

Use removable descaling bags instead of taking the head off.
If the tub spout diverter fails, choose a likeforlike replacement and keep the old one to put back when you move.
Use a strap wrench to avoid scratches; it also needs less grip strength than a metal wrench.
Keep tools simple: a small pressure gauge, vinegar, plumber’s tape, and a soft brush cover most jobs.

How often should I clean my shower head?

Do light cleaning monthly and a deeper descale every 3–6 months if you have hard water. If spray changes or starts to sputter, clean it sooner.

Case Studies, Data, and Cost Expectations

Real-world fixes

A fast diverter win: A family reported no water coming out of shower head, but the tub spout kept running when they pulled the lever. After cycling the diverter several times and flushing the tub mode, they replaced the spout diverter with a likeforlike part. The fix took 20 minutes and restored full shower flow.
The “two issues at once” case: A renter saw no flow at the shower but normal at the kitchen sink. The bare-arm test gave a weak trickle, which pointed upstream. A quick check found a partially closed bathroom angle stop under the sink and a clogged head screen. Opening the valve fully and cleaning the screen restored consistent water flow.

These examples show why quick checks plus one or two small fixes often resolve issues fast.

Fast facts and stats

Many homes have hard water, which leaves mineral deposits that clog shower heads and faucets over time. The U.S. Geological Survey explains how hardness leads to mineral buildup and scale in household plumbing.
WaterSense labeled shower heads use 2.0 GPM or less at standard pressure, helping you save water without giving up a good spray. Replacing a very old, highflow head can save water and lower bills.
Flushing sediment from a water heater is part of basic maintenance and can help keep hot water flow strong.

DIY vs. pro: time and cost ranges

Here are typical DIY and professional ranges. Actual costs vary by region and home.

Repair or Task	Typical Parts Cost	DIY Time	Typical Pro Cost
Descale and clean shower head	$0–$15	30–60 min	$100–$200
Replace tub spout diverter	$20–$60	30–60 min	$150–$300
Replace shower head (new)	$15–$100+	15–30 min	$100–$200
Replace shower cartridge	$30–$150	1–2 hrs	$200–$450+
Home pressure test (gauge)	$10–$20	10 min	Included in service call
Adjust/replace pressure regulator	$50–$150 parts	1–2 hrs	$250–$500+

If you face a seized cartridge, inwall leak, or broken pipe, the job may require professional tools and skills.

Extra Tips, Traps to Avoid, and Long-Term Wins

Not every weak spray is a flow restrictor problem. Most often it’s scale. Try simply cleaning the shower head first.
If you had work done on your water lines, new debris can clog the shower screen or cartridge. A quick clean after any work helps.
If the shower is the only place with no hot water, don’t rush to the water heater. The shower valve may be the real issue.
If you spot even a small leak behind the trim or at the tub spout, address it soon. Leaks can worsen and cause hidden damage.
If your home PSI is over 80, you need to reduce water pressure with a regulator to protect the plumbing system and prevent leaks.
If you’re installing a new shower head or learning how to install a new water spout bathroom shower, match thread types and use proper sealing. A simple, correct install prevents drips and keeps shower pressure steady.

Quick-Glance Troubleshooting Scenarios

No water at shower, sinks fine: Likely diverter or cartridge. Barearm test to confirm.
Water still pouring from tub spout in shower mode: Replace diverter spout.
Good arm flow, poor spray: Clean the shower head or replace it; check flow restrictor and screen.
Only hot or only cold not coming: Inspect the cartridge and antiscald limiter; check heater shutoffs and sediment.
Whole home weak: Test PSI; check main water shutoff and pressure regulator.
After construction or plumbing work: Flush lines; clean screens and cartridge ports.

FAQs

1. Why is there no water from my shower but sink works?

If you notice no water coming out of shower head but your sink works just fine, the issue is usually right at the shower itself. Most often, it’s caused by a clogged shower head, a diverter that’s failing to redirect water, a partially closed shutoff, or a worn-out cartridge. Mineral buildup or debris can quickly block the tiny passages in your shower head, which makes the flow weak or stops it entirely. A quick way to check is the bare-arm test: run water from the pipe without the head attached. If water flows well, the shower head is the culprit, and cleaning or replacing it is often the best solution. If the flow is still weak, the problem is upstream—either the diverter, the cartridge, or shutoff valves. Addressing these ensures consistent water and keeps your shower working like it should.

2. Why does water come from the tub spout but not the shower head?

If you notice water coming from the tub spout but no water coming out of shower head, the problem is usually the diverter. This small valve is responsible for redirecting water from the tub to the shower, and over time it can get stuck, fail to seal properly, or accumulate mineral buildup or debris that blocks the gate. A simple first step is to cycle the diverter several times and flush water in tub mode to clear any minor blockages. Then, switch to shower mode and check if the flow returns. If you still experience no water coming out of the shower head, it likely means the diverter is worn out or damaged. In most cases, replacing the tub spout diverter is the best solution, restoring proper water flow to the shower. Keeping this part clean and occasionally checking for buildup can prevent future issues and ensure a consistent, reliable shower experience.

3. How do I remove a stuck shower head without damage?

If your shower head seems stuck, don’t panic—removing it carefully can save your fixture from damage. Start by applying a few drops of penetrating oil to the threads and let it sit for a few minutes to loosen any mineral buildup or debris. Next, use a strap wrench to gently twist the shower head free, making sure to protect the finish with a cloth or rag to avoid scratches. Once it’s off, inspect the threads and the head for blockages, clean if needed, and then reattach. When reinstalling, wrap the threads with plumber’s tape to ensure a tight seal and avoid leaks, but be careful not to overtighten. Following these steps usually restores proper flow and can be a simple, effective way to fix a shower that’s been experiencing low water pressure or complete blockage.

4. Why is there no water through my shower head?

If you notice no water coming out of shower head, the most likely culprit is mineral buildup from hard water. Over time, scale can clog the tiny jets and inlet screen, reducing the flow to a trickle or stopping it entirely. Other common causes include a stuck or failing diverter valve that keeps water going to the tub instead of the shower, a closed bathroom shutoff, a blocked cartridge inside the shower valve, or even a broader low water pressure issue in your home’s plumbing. A good first step is the bare-arm test: remove the shower head and let the water flow from the arm. If it runs well, the problem is almost always the head itself—or its flow restrictor. If the arm struggles to deliver water, you’ll want to inspect the diverter, cartridge, and shutoff valves. Addressing the true cause is the best solution to get consistent water and avoid recurring issues.

5. How do I restore the flow to my shower head?

If you want to restore flow to your shower head, start by unscrewing it and testing the bare arm. Identifying the cause is crucial before doing anything else. If the arm flows well, your shower head likely just needs a good cleaning. Soak it in vinegar for 30–60 minutes, scrub the nozzles with a soft brush, rinse thoroughly, and reinstall with plumber’s tape. Don’t forget to clean the screen and flow restrictor—removing mineral buildup or debris here can significantly increase water flow. If it still sputters, replacing the head with one suited to your water pressure in the shower is the best move.

If the bare arm has weak flow, the issue is upstream. Cycle or replace the diverter valve, fully open all shut-off valves, and inspect or replace the shower valve cartridge. Adjust the anti-scald limiter as needed. For persistent pressure problems, test your home PSI and consider installing a water softener to protect pipes and maintain consistent flow.

6. What is the most common problem with shower heads?

The number one issue most people face with shower heads is mineral buildup from hard water. Over time, scale and deposits can clog those tiny nozzles and the screen, leaving you with weak flow or even no water coming out of the shower head. It might not seem like a big deal at first, but the reduced spray can make showers frustrating and slow. Regular cleaning—like soaking the head in vinegar and scrubbing the nozzles—can remove the mineral buildup or debris and often increase water flow almost immediately. For a longer-term solution, consider installing a water softener in areas with hard water. This not only helps keep your shower head running smoothly but also protects pipes and other fixtures from scale buildup. Combining consistent maintenance with water softening is really the best way to keep your showers strong, steady, and hassle-free.

7. How do I fix a shower with no hot water but cold works?

If your shower only gives you cold water and no hot, it usually points to an issue on the hot side of the cartridge or with the antiscald limiter. First, make sure the water heater’s hot outlet valve is fully open—sometimes a simple valve adjustment is all it takes. Sediment buildup in the heater can also restrict hot water, so consider flushing it if you haven’t done so in a while. While you’re at it, check the shower valve itself to ensure it’s letting hot and cold water mix correctly. If, after these steps, you’re still getting no water coming out of the shower head or inconsistent temperatures, it’s wise to call a professional plumber. They can diagnose issues like a failing cartridge or hidden valve problems safely and efficiently, ensuring your shower returns to steady, reliable hot and cold water flow.

8. What PSI is best for a shower?

Most homes get a comfortable shower experience when water pressure sits around 45–60 PSI, with 60 PSI often hitting the sweet spot for consistent water flow. Pressures much lower than that can make the shower feel weak, while anything above 80 PSI risks damaging pipes and fixtures. If you notice your shower isn’t delivering enough pressure or the flow fluctuates, there are a few simple fixes. Check for clogged shower heads, mineral buildup, or partially closed water valves—cleaning or adjusting these can increase water output noticeably. Sometimes, adding a pressure regulator or adjusting the existing one can help maintain steady water pressure in the shower. It’s a simple fix that can transform a frustrating, weak spray into a satisfying, full-flowing shower experience, giving you consistent water every time you step in.

References

https://www.epa.gov/watersense/showerheads?