How to Remove Bathtub Drain: Step-by-Step Guide & Expert Tips

Need to remove b a thtub drain for a clog, upgrade, or leak? This guide shows exactly how to remove a bathtub drain assemblies—stopper and drain flange—with the right tools, clear steps, and fixes for stuck or corroded parts. You’ll see how to identify your stopper, how to unscrew tub drain flanges, and what to do when cross members are broken or the drain is painted in place. Most standard removals take 10–30 minutes when there’s no heavy corrosion.

Quick Start: How to Remove the Drain from the Bathtub (Fast)

You want the result without the runaround. Here is the short version so you can get moving right away.

Why it matters in less than a minute: You remove bathtub drain to clear a deep clog, replace a worn or peeling drain flange, upgrade hardware, or stop a slow leak that drips into the ceiling below. A pro often charges $75–$250 for a basic drain removal and replacement. Many DIYers do it successfully with a tub drain wrench and a little patience.

Tools at a glance you’ll actually use:

Tub drain wrench (for intact cross members in the drain flange)
Tub drain extraction tool (for broken or stripped drains)
Phillips and flat screwdrivers
Pliers (wrap jaws with a cloth to protect finishes)
Penetrating oil
Plumber’s putty or silicone (as directed by the new drain’s instructions)
Towels, bucket, flashlight, utility blade

5-step quick removal (high level):

Identify your stopper and drain type.
Remove the stopper or cover so you can access the flange.
Insert the tub drain wrench into the cross bars inside the drain. If the cross members are broken, insert an extraction tool instead.
Turn it counterclockwise with steady pressure. If it won’t budge, apply penetrating oil around the flange threads and let it sit 5–10 minutes before trying again.
Clean the seating area, then reinstall or replace with new putty or silicone and test for leaks.

Key stat callouts you can use to plan:

Standard removals: 10–30 minutes.
Corroded or broken cross members: common in about 20–30% of older tubs.
Most DIYers succeed on standard drains using the right tool and careful torque.

Identify Types of Bathroom Tub Drains & Stoppers

Before you take out bathtub drain, you need to know what you’re working with. The bathtub drain you see has two parts: the stopper you interact with during a bath, and the drain flange (the metal ring you see in the tub floor) that threads into the waste shoe underneath. Some homes also have a trip lever on the overflow plate that connects to an internal linkage.

What you’re looking at:

Toe-touch: A cap you tap with your toe to open/close. It often unscrews at the cap, then the base.
Push-and-pull: You pull up to open and push down to close. The cap usually unscrews, revealing a base you can remove.
Lift-and-turn: A knob you lift and twist to lock or unlock. A small set screw under the knob typically holds it in place.
Trip-lever (waste-and-overflow): No stopper on the drain itself; there’s a strainer or grid on the drain and a lever on the overflow plate that moves an internal plunger.
Fixed grid/cover: A simple grate that may have visible screws.

As for the drain body, the most common bathtub setup has a screw-in drain flange with small cross members inside. Those cross bars let you insert a tub drain wrench. If the cross members are broken or the drain is badly corroded, you’ll rely on an extraction tool that grips the inner wall of the drain.

Not sure what you have? Try this quick mental flow:

See a knob or cap you can twist or pull? It’s likely lift-and-turn, push-and-pull, or toe-touch.
No movable stopper on the tub floor and a lever on the overflow plate? That’s a trip-lever setup.
A simple metal grid with screws? Fixed grid/cover—unscrew the cover to access the flange.

Once you identify it, you can follow the matching removal steps below.

Drain Removal Tools, Prep, and Safety You Actually Need

For most people, the right tool is the difference between a 15-minute win and a 2-hour slog. A tub drain wrench is made for this job and is worth the modest cost. If the cross members are broken or stripped, a tub drain extraction tool is the safer choice because it grips the inside of the drain body without relying on those bars.

Core tools:

Tub drain wrench (four-point contact is stable and less likely to slip)
Tub drain extraction tool (for damaged or corroded drains)
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Pliers (wrap jaws with a cloth to avoid scratching)
Penetrating oil (to loosen stuck threads)
Towels and a bucket (catch drips, keep the area dry)
Non-scratch surface protection (masking tape or a folded towel around the flange)
Flashlight (for seeing set screws and cross bars clearly)
Utility blade (to cut paint or caulk at the flange edge)

Optional helpers:

Small wire brush to clean threads
Plastic scraper for removing old putty
Nitrile gloves to keep hands clean
Shop vac to clear debris around the opening
A rag to cushion the wrench against the tub

Safety essentials:

Protect the tub finish. Lay a towel around the drain or tape off the area so your tool doesn’t scratch enamel or acrylic.
Use steady, even torque with good wrist support. Quick, jerky moves can chip the finish or twist the waste shoe beneath the tub.
Never use an open flame to “heat” the drain. It can damage finishes and nearby materials.
Watch your posture. Apply pressure from a stable stance, and don’t overreach. If you need more leverage, use an extender on the tool handle rather than brute force at an awkward angle.

Time, difficulty, and cost:

Time: 10–30 minutes for a standard drain. Stuck or corroded drains take longer.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Trouble rise with corrosion and stripped threads.
Tool cost range: About $15–$40 for a tub drain wrench and $25–$60 for an extraction tool.

Remove Bathtub Drain Stoppers or Covers (All Types)

Most removal jobs start with taking out the visible stopper, then removing the drain flange. Here’s how to remove different type of stopper.

Lift-and-turn

Loosen the set screw under the top knob. Raise the knob and look under the rim for a small set screw. Use a screwdriver or hex key.
Once loose, lift and twist the stopper counterclockwise to release it from the post.
If stuck, apply a drop of penetrating oil and gently wiggle. Do not strip the set screw.

Push-pull / Toe-touch

Unscrew the top cap by hand. If it’s tight, use a cloth-wrapped plier to protect the finish while turning counterclockwise.
With the cap off, unscrew the base from the threaded post.
If the cap spins but won’t lift, hold the base steady with pliers while turning the cap.

Trip-lever / Waste-and-overflow

Remove the overflow plate screws and gently pull the plate forward. The lever and linkage will come out as one piece.
For trip-lever styles, gently pull the stopper linkage out. This can be long and may drip, so hold a towel beneath.
If there’s a grid over the drain, remove the visible screws and lift the cover.
If the linkage feels stuck, avoid forcing it. Apply a little penetrating oil to the screws and re-check for corrosion before pulling again.

Fixed grid/cover

Remove any visible screws. Keep them in a cup so you don’t lose them.
If the cover is glued or caulked, score the perimeter with a utility blade to break the seal, then lift.

Remove the Drain Flange/Body (Standard and Stubborn)

Now you’re ready for drain flange removal. This is the part many people worry about, but with the right tool and patience, it’s straightforward.

Standard flange removal (screw-in drains)

Insert the tub drain wrench into the crossbar (the little cross members inside the drain) and keep the tool square while turning. Make sure it’s seated well and square.
Turn counterclockwise with steady pressure. Keep the tool straight to avoid slipping.
If stuck, apply penetrating oil at the flange perimeter and the inner threads. Let it sit 5–10 minutes. A light tap on the tool can help the oil wick into the threads.
Try again with smooth, even torque. Think slow and controlled, not a quick yank.

When cross members are broken or threads are stripped

Use a tub drain extraction tool. It expands against the inner drain wall, letting you apply torque without cross bars.
Keep the tool square so it bites evenly. Increase torque gradually. If it slips, reset and tighten slightly before trying again.
Protect the finish by padding the area around the drain with a towel or tape.

Corroded or painted-over drains

Score paint or caulk at the flange edge with a utility blade to break surface bonds.
Apply penetrating oil, wait, and work in short cycles. Turn a little. If it resists, stop and reapply oil.
For old tubs, corrosion may bind threads. The gentle cycle of oil + controlled torque is your friend.

Important cautions

Avoid over-torquing. If the waste shoe beneath the tub starts to turn, stop immediately. Twisting the shoe can break the seal or damage piping.
If the drain body deforms, reassess. Move to an extraction tool or call a pro if you see the drain collapsing instead of turning.

how to remove the drain from the bathtub

Clean, Inspect, and Reinstall or Replace

You’ve managed removing the bathtub drain. Before you insert the drain, be sure to clean and inspect the seating area thoroughly. According to the EPA’s Home Maintenance guide, proper maintenance of water-using fixtures reduces leaks and improves longevity of plumbing systems.

Clean the seating area completely

Scrape away old plumber’s putty or silicone with a plastic scraper. Avoid metal blades that can gouge the tub.
Wipe the area until smooth and dry. A clean, dry surface helps the new seal seat properly.
Inspect the gasket or washer in the waste shoe. If you can access the underside, check for cracks or missing parts. Replace damaged pieces before moving on.

Reinstallation (new drain)

Installing a new drain may need tools and support, otherwise you could run into trouble. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), improper bathtub drain installation can increase the risk of leaks and even structural water damage.

Before you insert the drain into place, roll a rope of plumber’s putty and press it around the underside of the new flange. If the manufacturer calls for silicone instead, follow those directions and allow proper cure time.
Hand-thread the new flange into the waste shoe. Start gently to avoid cross-threading.
Snug it with the drain wrench so the flange is secure. It should be firm but not overtight. Over-tightening can squeeze out too much putty or damage threads.
Wipe away excess putty squeezed out around the flange.
Reinstall your stopper. Adjust linkage on trip-lever styles so the drain opens and closes cleanly.

Leak test

Fill the tub a few inches. Check around the flange for weeping.
If you can access the plumbing below (through a ceiling below or an access panel), inspect from underneath for drips.
If you see moisture, drain the tub, remove the flange, clean again, and reseat with fresh putty. Confirm the gasket is aligned and undamaged.

Troubleshooting: Stuck, Stripped, or Leaking

Even with the right tools, removing or reinstalling a bathtub drain doesn’t always go smoothly. From stuck parts to stripped threads or new leaks, a few common problems can pop up. Here’s how to recognize them—and the smartest way to fix each one.

Won’t budge

Likely causes include mineral buildup, corrosion, or a paint/caulk bridge between the flange and tub.
Fix with cycles of penetrating oil and patience. You may need to repeat this a few times before it finally loosens. Score the perimeter to break paint or caulk. Use an extraction tool if the cross members bend or break.
Increase leverage with a handled wrench or short pipe on the tool, but keep the force steady and controlled.

Broken cross members

Move straight to the extraction tool. Avoid makeshift methods like two screwdrivers crossed in the drain. Those can slip and mar the finish or warp the drain body.

Stripped threads or spinning waste shoe

If the drain turns but won’t back out, threads may be stripped or the waste shoe might be spinning below. Stop here. Continuing can damage the shoe or the tub. This is a good time to call a plumber.

Leaks after reinstall

The usual cause is too little putty, uneven seating, or a misaligned gasket. Remove the flange, clean both surfaces fully, apply fresh putty, and reinstall with gentle, even pressure.
For plastic drains, be extra careful. Too much torque can deform the material, creating a leak path.

Cost, Time, and When to Call a Pro

Most people can remove bathtub drain safely with basic tools and the right method. Expect 10–30 minutes on a standard job and extra time if you’re dealing with corrosion or a painted-in flange. The typical contractor or plumber fee ranges from $75–$250, and may be higher when the drain is stuck, the waste shoe is weak, or the underside is hard to reach.

Consider calling a pro if:

The waste shoe rotates while you try to unscrew the drain flange.
The tub surface cracks or you notice severe pitting around the flange.
The cross members are gone and you don’t have an extraction tool.
There is no access panel and you suspect the gasket or shoe may be damaged.
Your tub or drain is plastic and you’re unsure about safe torque.

How to Tell Your Drain Type and Choose the Right Tool

People often ask, “How do I tell what type of tub drain I have?” Start at the stopper. If you see and can operate a knob on the drain itself (lift-and-turn, push-and-pull, or toe-touch), remove the cap, look for a set screw, and the stopper usually comes off by hand with a simple turn counterclockwise. If there’s a lever on the overflow plate and only a grid at the drain, you likely have a trip-lever system. The overflow screws out, and the linkage lifts straight out.

Once the stopper or cover is off, you can see the drain flange better. Peer inside with a flashlight. Visible cross members? A tub drain wrench is your go-to. No cross members, a jagged opening, or heavy rust flakes? Move to a tub drain extraction tool. It grips the inside of the drain body, so it does not rely on those missing cross bars.

Real-World Tips That Save Time

You’d be surprised how much time small details can save. A quick example: a 1970s tub with a painted-in flange often looks impossible. Scoring the paint cleanly around the flange, then applying penetrating oil, breaks the bond and keeps you from over-torquing and scuffing the enamel. Another example: a lift-and-turn stopper with a stubborn set screw may respond to a single drop of oil, a gentle wiggle, and the right size driver. I recommend using penetrating oil and patience here, since stripped screws are a frequent problem that adds hassle and cost.

Use your flashlight and look closely at the cross members. If they already look thin, move straight to the extraction tool. That choice avoids bending or snapping them and turning a 10-minute job into an hour.

Special Notes for Plastic Drains and Older Tubs

Plastic drains can deform under high torque. If you have a plastic drain body, use the correct tool and minimal force. Take extra care with extraction tools so you don’t warp the inner wall. If the drain does not budge with reasonable pressure, consider calling a pro to prevent damage to the pipe or tub finish.

Older tubs often carry decades of mineral buildup. In these cases, patience wins. Short cycles of penetrating oil, light tapping on the tool to help wicking, and breaks between attempts are more effective than one long, forceful attempt.

Preventing Future Problems When You Replace Your Bathtub Drain

After you replace your bathtub drain, a few simple steps make life easier next time:

Use fresh plumber’s putty for metal flanges and follow the product’s directions if silicone is required. Good sealing reduces seepage and corrosion.
Do not overtighten. Overtightening squeezes out sealant and can distort threads.
Keep the stopper or plug clean. Hair and soap scum shorten the life of the mechanism and can jam linkage.
If you have a trip-lever system, adjust linkage so the stopper fully opens and closes without strain.

Summary: Key Takeaways to Remove Bathtub Drain

Identify the stopper and drain type first. This will relate directly to which tools you should use and how easy the job will be.
Use the right tool. A tub drain wrench is best for intact cross members; an extraction tool is best for broken or corroded drains.
Turn counterclockwise with steady pressure. If stuck, apply penetrating oil around the flange and let it sit 5–10 minutes.
Clean, reseal, and test. Fresh putty or silicone and a careful leak test prevent callbacks and water damage.
Stop if the waste shoe rotates or the drain deforms. That’s your signal to reassess or call a professional.

FAQs

1. How do you unscrew a bathtub drain?

Basically, you start by removing the stopper so you can see the drain flange. Once it’s exposed, take a tub drain wrench and seat it firmly into the little cross bars inside the drain. Turn it counterclockwise with steady, even pressure—not jerky moves. If the flange feels stuck, that’s usually from old caulk, paint, or mineral buildup. In that case, spray or drip some penetrating oil around the edges, let it sit for about 5–10 minutes, and then give it another go. Sometimes a light tap on the wrench helps the oil wick in. If the cross members inside are already broken or missing, don’t force it with random tools—switch to a tub drain extraction tool instead, because it grips the inside wall and saves you a lot of frustration.

2. Is it safe to remove a bathtub drain myself?

For most people, yes—it’s a pretty common DIY job. The key is to protect your tub surface first (lay a towel or some tape around the drain), and always use the right tool. Apply smooth, controlled torque instead of brute force. But you also need to watch for red flags: if you see the waste shoe underneath starting to rotate, or the drain body itself deforming, that’s a sign to stop immediately. Same thing if your tub has a plastic drain—they can warp more easily. So it’s safe as long as you go slow, know when to pause, and don’t push past the point of resistance.

3. Do you need a special tool to remove a tub drain?

Technically, you could try pliers or makeshift methods, but the truth is a tub drain wrench is designed for this exact job—it fits securely and reduces the chance of slipping or scratching the finish. If your drain is in good shape, that’s usually all you need. But if the drain is corroded, stripped, or missing those inner cross bars, then a tub drain extraction tool becomes almost essential. It expands against the inner wall and gives you grip where a standard wrench can’t. So yes, you can improvise, but if you want to avoid damaging your tub, a proper wrench (and sometimes an extraction tool) is the way to go.

4. Should I call a plumber to remove my bathtub drain?

It depends on what you run into. If the waste shoe underneath starts spinning while you’re turning the flange, or the drain absolutely won’t budge even after oil and proper tools, that’s when a plumber is worth the call. Same if you see cracks around the tub surface, really bad corrosion, or missing pieces you can’t access. If you don’t have an extraction tool and your drain is already broken, it’s often cheaper in the long run to call a pro than to risk damaging the tub or piping. Also, if you don’t have an access panel to check the underside and you suspect the gasket might be failing, that’s another time to bring in help.

5. Why won’t my bathtub drain unscrew?

There are a few common culprits. One is mineral buildup or rust in the threads—that can really lock the flange in place over time. Another is paint or caulk sealing the flange edge to the tub, which acts like glue. Sometimes the drain was cross-threaded during the last install, which makes it harder to turn. The usual trick is to score around the flange with a utility blade to break any paint/caulk seal, then apply penetrating oil and let it sit. If your cross bars look fragile or are already gone, that’s when an extraction tool is your best next step—forcing it with pliers usually just damages the opening.

6. What are the different types of bathtub drains?

When people say “tub drain,” they usually mean both the stopper and the drain flange. For stoppers, you’ve got a few common types:

Lift-and-turn (a knob you lift and twist, held by a tiny set screw)
Push-and-pull (pull up to open, push down to close)
Toe-touch (tap with your toe to open or close)
Trip-lever (operated by a lever on the overflow plate with an internal plunger)
Fixed grid/cover (a simple grate that doesn’t move, often with screws)

As for the drain body itself, most tubs have a screw-in drain flange with cross members inside. Older tubs or heavily used ones might have broken or corroded cross bars, which affects how you remove them.

7. How do I tell what type of tub drain I have?

Start with the stopper. If you see a knob you can lift and twist, that’s a lift-and-turn (and you’ll usually find a set screw under the knob). If it’s one you can pull up and push down, that’s push-and-pull. Toe-touch ones open and close with a tap from your toe. If there’s no stopper on the drain at all, just a grid, and you see a lever on the overflow plate, that’s a trip-lever setup. And if it’s just a simple grate with screws, that’s a fixed grid/cover. When in doubt, unscrew or pop off the visible part—you’ll usually see right away how it’s attached and what type you’re working with.

References

https://www.epa.gov/watersense/home-maintenance

https://www.cpsc.gov