Changing a tub drain stopper is one of those fast DIY wins that feels great when you finish. If your drain in bathtub won’t drain, or your bathtub won’t hold water in the closed position, a simple stopper swap or cleaning under the cap often fixes it. In many homes, you can change tub drain stopper parts in a few minutes with the right ID and a couple of tools. The key is to identify the stopper type, loosen counterclockwise, and watch for hidden set screws that lock certain models in place.
This guide walks you through instant stopper identification, then gives step-by-step instructions for the most common types: lift-and-turn, push-pull, toe-touch, pop-up, and trip-lever (waste-and-overflow). You’ll learn how to handle a stuck, stripped, or free-spinning unit, how to clean and lubricate, and how to reinstall or replace it with a new stopper that fits your tub’s drain. We’ll also cover tools required, safety, and real time estimates. At the end, grab the printable checklist and a quick troubleshooting matrix.
Have you asked, “How do I remove a bathtub drain stopper?” or “What if my tub drain won’t unscrew?” You’re in the right place. Let’s make your bathtub drain work smoothly again.
Quick Start: Identify Your Stopper Type in 60 Seconds
Visual ID cues: lift-and-turn, push-pull, toe-touch, pop-up, trip-lever — what you see and how it behaves
- Lift-and-turn: A small knob on top that you twist to open and close. It often has a set screw under the cap or in the side of the post. It usually unscrews counterclockwise to remove.
- Push-pull: Push to close, pull to open. Looks like a round cap you can grasp with your fingers. Often threads onto a post; cap unscrews to reveal the shaft.
- Toe-touch: Flat, spring-loaded cap you press with your toe. Push once to close the drain, push again to open. Inside is a spring and o-ring; the cap and post unscrew for removal.
- Pop-up (stopper at the drain): Similar to toe-touch but may have a different internal mechanism; sometimes the cap free-spins unless you engage the hidden slot or hold the outer rim to catch threads.
- Trip-lever (lever-and-plunger): A lever on the overflow plate (the metal plate up on the wall of the tub). Moving the lever raises/lowers a plunger inside the overflow pipe that opens or closes the drain. The stopper you see at the drain may be a simple strainer or grate, with the real action inside the wall.
If you’re thinking, “how to remove tub stopper no screw?” you likely have a push-pull, toe-touch, or a lift-and-turn with a cap that hides the screw. Pop-ups can also hide their engagement point.
Fast decision tree (interactive quiz): answer 5 questions to pinpoint your stopper type
Do you see a lever on the overflow plate?
Yes → You have a trip-lever system.
No → Continue.
Do you push down on the stopper to close and push again to open?
Yes → Toe-touch or push-pull (toe-touch is flatter; push-pull cap usually pulls up with fingers).
No → Continue.
Do you twist a small knob to open/close?
Yes → Lift-and-turn.
No → Continue.
When you try to unscrew the cap, does it just spin without catching?
Yes → Likely pop-up (needs a trick to engage threads).
No → Continue.
Is the cap fixed and there’s only a metal grate at the drain while the lever is on the overflow?
Yes → Trip-lever with internal plunger.
Tool checklist by stopper type
- Lift-and-turn: Flathead screwdriver, small Allen wrench set, small plier or channel-lock (jaws wrapped with cloth), flashlight.
- Push-pull / Toe-touch: Flathead screwdriver, pliers (cloth-wrapped jaws), replacement o-ring if needed, faucet grease.
- Pop-up: Flathead for the slot, pliers to hold the rim, soft cloth, grease.
- Trip-lever: Phillips screwdriver for the overflow cover, needle-nose pliers, tape measure to note rod length, rags.
Visual aid: comparison table of common bathtub drain stoppers
| Stopper type | How it operates | Where it locks | Typical removal start | Common tools |
| Lift-and-turn | Twist knob to open/close | Set screw on post | Twist cap; check for hidden set screw | Flathead, Allen, pliers |
| Push-pull | Pull up to open, push down to close | Threads on post | Unscrew cap; lift out post | Flathead, pliers |
| Toe-touch | Tap with toe to toggle | Spring and post | Unscrew cap; inspect spring | Flathead, pliers |
| Pop-up | Press cap; may free-spin | Internal slot | Hold rim or use slot to engage | Flathead, pliers |
| Trip-lever | Lever on overflow moves plunger | Inside overflow pipe | Remove overflow plate; pull linkage | Phillips, needle-nose |
Step-by-Step: Change Tub Drain Stopper (All Types)
Below are simple steps for removing and replacing each style. If you just need to remove the bathtub stopper to clear a clog, you can reinstall the same one after cleaning and a light lube. If you’re replacing drain stopper in bathtub with a new unit, match threads and finish, then reverse the steps to install.
Lift-and-turn removal
Most lift-and-turn assemblies loosen counterclockwise, but you may need to release a set screw first. Some use a small flathead screw; others use a tiny Allen (Source: Family Handyman, 2024, Read the article).
Step-by-step:
- Put the stopper in the open position.
- Hold the handle/knob and try turning the cap counterclockwise. If it won’t move or just spins, continue.
- Look for a small set screw on the side of the post or under a top cap. Pry the cap gently with a flathead screwdriver if needed, taking care not to scratch the finish.
- Use the correct driver (flathead or Allen wrench) to loosen the set screw 1–2 turns.
- Twist the stopper counterclockwise to unthread it from the post. If the post remains, unthread the shaft by turning the post counterclockwise.
- Lift out the stopper and set aside any small screws in a cup.
Facts:
- Most units unscrew counterclockwise once the set screw is free.
- If you must use pliers for extra grip, wrap the jaws with a cloth to protect finishes.
Push-pull and toe-touch removal
These look similar. Push-pull pulls up to open; toe-touch toggles with a toe press. The cap usually unscrews, exposing the post.
Steps:
- Put the stopper in the open position.
- Grasp the stopper cap and twist counterclockwise to remove it. If it’s slippery, use a rubber jar gripper.
- Lift the cap off; then unthread the lower post/shaft counterclockwise from the drain fitting.
- Inspect the spring (toe-touch) and the o-ring for wear or cracks. Replace as needed.
- Clean threads and the strainer/crossbars in the drain.
Pop-up removal
Pop-up caps often free-spin unless you stabilize them.
Steps:
- Put the stopper in the open position.
- Try to twist off the cap counterclockwise. If it spins without catching, place a flathead screwdriver in the internal slot (revealed when slightly lifted) to engage threads, or gently hold the outer rim with cloth-wrapped pliers while turning.
- Lift off the cap and unscrew any inner post.
- Clean and inspect the mechanism and o-ring.
Trip-lever (waste-and-overflow) removal
These do not remove from the drain itself. The control is the trip lever on the overflow.
Steps:
- Remove the two screws on the overflow plate with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Gently pull the lever assembly, rod, and plunger straight out of the overflow opening. Note the orientation and the rod length. A phone photo helps.
- If your drain has a separate grate or cover, remove it to clear hair and debris below.
- Clean the plunger and linkage. If the plunger is worn or swollen, consider replacing the assembly.
- Reinstall by sliding the plunger and rod back inside the overflow pipe, align the plate, and secure the screws.
Time notes based on field experience:
- Many homeowners finish removal in minutes with the right tool.
- Pros often remove common styles in under five minutes; a large share of drainage issues are cleared by cleaning under the stopper.
Visual: Step sequence cards for each type
- Lift-and-turn: Open → Find set screw → Loosen → Twist off cap → Unthread post → Clean.
- Push-pull/Toe-touch: Open → Twist off cap → Unthread post → Inspect spring/o-ring → Clean.
- Pop-up: Open → Stabilize rim or use slot → Twist off cap → Clean.
- Trip-lever: Remove overflow plate → Pull linkage → Clean plunger → Reinstall.
Troubleshooting Stuck, Stripped, or Spinning Stoppers
Hidden set screws and caps: where to look, which drivers to try, how to break threadlock gently
If you cannot unscrew a bathtub drain plug, you may be fighting a set screw or thread compound. Look under a decorative top cap and around the side of the post. Try both a flathead and a small Allen wrench (often 2–3 mm). Turn only enough to unlock the mechanism. If there’s dried sealant, wiggle the cap by hand first to break the bond.
Stuck threads: plier technique, penetrating oil, light heat caution, protect chrome with a rag
When you must use pliers:
- Wrap the jaws with a cloth to prevent scratches.
- Apply steady, controlled torque, not jerky force.
- Add a drop of penetrating oil at the thread line and wait 10–15 minutes.
- As a last resort, brief, low heat from a hair dryer may soften gunk, but avoid heating plastic trims or caulk. Never use open flame near the tub.
If the threads are stripped, consider replacing the stopper assembly. If the drain flange itself is damaged, you may need a drain key to remove and replace the flange.
Free-spinning cap/knob: engage the internal slot with a flathead or hold the outer rim with pliers to start threads
A cap that turns without rising is common on pop-up styles. Lift the cap slightly, insert a flathead into the slot, and turn to catch the threads. Or, hold the cap’s outer diameter with cloth-wrapped pliers while turning the center post. Once engaged, it usually unthreads easily.
Why won’t my tub stopper unscrew?
Common causes:
- A concealed set screw is still tight.
- Mineral buildup or soap scum has glued the threads.
- Cross-threading from a previous install.
- Dried thread sealant or adhesive.
Tip: A flashlight and five quiet minutes of looking for the exact mechanism saves time and avoids damage.
Clean, Inspect, and Prep the Drain for Reassembly
Clear hair and debris at crossbars： most clogs are cleared after accessing below the stopper
When you remove the stopper, you often reveal a small blockage of hair, gunk, and soap scum at the crossbars of the drain. Pull it with a hair hook or needle-nose pliers, then brush the area. For many homes, this is why the bathtub was draining slowly.
Tools: simple hair hook, needle-nose pliers, a small brush, and a rag.
Lubrication and seals: apply faucet grease to threads and o-rings; inspect/replace gaskets; ensure smooth travel
Wipe off old grease and grit. Add a thin coat of faucet grease to the threads and the o-ring. This helps the cap turn smoothly and makes future removal easier. Replace any flattened or cracked o-rings. On toe-touch, check the spring: if it’s weak, replace it.
Check drain flange condition: corrosion, stripped threads, or loose flange; when a drain key or new flange is needed
If the old drain flange is corroded or wobbly, you may need to replace it. Look for:
- Rounded or stripped threads where posts attach.
- A flange that spins in the tub without tightening.
- Leaks around the flange.
A drain key tool grips inside the drain to remove it. When reinstalling a new flange, use plumber’s putty or, if the manufacturer requires, silicone.
Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone for a tub drain?
Most drain flanges seal with plumber’s putty under the rim. Some manufacturers specify a silicone sealant instead. Always follow the product’s directions.
Visual: quick maintenance checklist
- Remove hair and debris from crossbars.
- Clean threads and cap.
- Replace o-rings or springs as needed.
- Light coat of faucet grease on moving parts.
- Wipe the tub surface and polish the cap after installation.
Reinstall or Replace: Fit, Height, and Seal Done Right
Thread engagement and height adjustment: ensure full open/close travel; avoid cross-threading
Start threads by hand to ensure they seat straight. Never force the post if it resists; back up and start again to avoid cross-threading. On lift-and-turn and push-pull styles, adjust the height so the cap seals in the closed position and clears fully in open position.
Avoid over-tightening: hand-snug + minor turn; finish protection; when to use Teflon tape on threaded posts
Best practice: hand-snug plus a minor turn with light tool pressure. Over-tightening can crack trim, crush o-rings, or warp parts so they bind. If the post-to-cap threads are loose, a single wrap of Teflon tape on the post can reduce wobble. Do not tape fine set screws; they need metal-to-metal contact.
Leak and function tests: fill/hold/drain timing; tweak height or spring tension; final polish
- Fill the tub a few inches and watch for drips under the tub if accessible.
- Time the seal: water should hold. If it seeps, adjust cap height or replace the o-ring.
- Test the drainage in open mode. If it’s slow, recheck for debris at the crossbars.
How tight should a tub drain stopper be?
Tight enough to seal without binding. The cap should still turn or move freely. If it sticks, loosen slightly or re-grease.
Choosing a Replacement Stopper: Compatibility, Cost, Eco Options
Measure and match: 1-1/2 in standard drains; brand-specific vs universal; finish matching
Most modern tubs use a 1-1/2 inch tub drain size. Check:
- The drain opening and thread standard.
- Post/thread compatibility for your stopper assembly.
- Finish match: chrome, brushed nickel, matte black, etc.
- Some stoppers are brand-specific; others are universal kits.
Tip: Take the old parts to the hardware store to match threads and length.
Cost-effectiveness: replace wear parts vs full kit; longevity, warranty, parts availability
You can often replace the old o-ring, spring, or post rather than buying a full kit.
Approximate costs:
- O-ring/spring kits: low cost.
- Replacement stopper only: modest cost.
- Full waste-and-overflow kit: higher, but includes trim and gaskets.
Replacing only what’s worn reduces waste and preserves color match.
Eco-friendly picks: repairable designs, durable materials, reduce single-use plastics and premature replacements
Choose durable stopper designs with field-replaceable o-rings and springs. Keep a small tube of faucet grease and spare o-rings on hand to extend life. Avoid harsh chemicals that can damage rubber seals; prevent buildup with periodic hair removal.
Which bathtub stopper is best?
The “best” depends on what you want:
- Easiest to use: push-pull or toe-touch.
- Simple, repairable: lift-and-turn with accessible set screw.
- Hidden control: trip-lever (good for deep tubs and clean look). Choose the style you prefer to operate and maintain, and ensure parts are available.
Tools, Safety, and Time: What You’ll Really Need
Core toolkit and substitutions
- Screwdrivers: flathead and Phillips
- Small Allen wrench set
- Channel-lock pliers or small adjustable pliers (wrap jaws)
- Drain key (only if changing the drain flange)
- Penetrating oil
- Faucet grease
- Flashlight and rubber jar gripper
- Rags, small brush, needle-nose pliers
Safety and surface protection
- Wear gloves and eye protection if pulling hair clogs.
- Use painter’s tape around shiny trim if you’ll use tools near it.
- Place a rag under plier jaws to avoid scratches.
- Never mix drain chemicals; if you used a chemical cleaner, flush well and wait before working.
Time estimates (by type and condition)
Most people can remove the drain stopper and clean or replace it quickly and easily once they identify the type.
| Task | Typical time |
| Lift-and-turn / Pop-up removal and clean | 5–10 minutes |
| Push-pull / Toe-touch removal and clean | 5–10 minutes |
| Trip-lever remove, clean plunger, reinstall | 15–30 minutes |
| Add for older/corroded hardware | +10–20 minutes |
Note: If the tub drain flange must be replaced, add more time for sealing and cure if using silicone.
Pro Tips, Data, and Real-World Cases
Gentle force over brute force
The fastest path is to identify first, then apply controlled torque. Most stoppers come off with a light twist once you release a set screw or properly engage the threads. A tiny Allen key has saved more finishes than a big wrench ever will.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Over-tightening caps and posts
- Scratching visible chrome by using bare plier jaws
- Losing tiny set screws (work over a towel)
- Misidentifying a trip lever and tugging at the wrong part
- Cross-threading during installation
When to call a pro
- Seized or spinning drain flange
- Damaged crossbars or cracked overflow pipe
- Persistent leak behind the overflow plate
- Stripped threads where the stopper post attaches
Mini case studies
- Older lift-and-turn with hidden set screw: The cap wouldn’t budge. A quick lift of the top revealed a tiny side set screw. A small Allen loosened it, and the cap spun off by hand.
- Free-spinning pop-up: The user twisted and nothing happened. Holding the cap’s rim with a cloth and engaging the center slot with a flathead caught the threads; removal took under a minute.
- Corroded toe-touch: The post was stuck. A drop of penetrating oil and cloth-wrapped pliers with slow, steady torque broke the bond without marring the finish.
Summary
10-step actionable checklist to change tub drain stopper
- Identify your stopper type.
- Gather tools required for that type.
- Protect finishes with tape or cloth.
- Access the cap or knob.
- Locate and release any set screw.
- Turn counterclockwise to remove; take out the drain plug bathtub safely.
- Clear debris and hair; clean and grease threads.
- Reinstall or insert the new stopper; adjust height and mechanism travel.
- Test seal and drainage; tweak as needed.
- Schedule a quick clean every few months to prevent clogs.
Visual/interactive wrap-up
Comparison table: stopper types vs tools (quick view)
| Type | Primary tools | Typical removal note |
| Lift-and-turn | Flathead, Allen, pliers | Find and loosen set screw |
| Push-pull | Flathead, pliers | Cap unthreads; check o-ring |
| Toe-touch | Flathead, pliers | Cap/post unthread; inspect spring |
| Pop-up | Flathead, pliers | Hold rim or use slot to engage threads |
| Trip-lever | Phillips, needle-nose | Remove overflow plate; pull linkage |
Troubleshooting matrix (symptom → fix → tool)
| Symptom | Fix | Tool |
| Cap free-spins | Hold rim or use internal slot | Pliers + flathead |
| Won’t unscrew | Loosen hidden set screw; add oil | Allen/flathead + oil |
| Poor seal | Replace o-ring; adjust height | O-ring + fingers |
| Slow draining | Clear hair at crossbars | Needle-nose + brush |
| Post wobbles | Add Teflon tape or replace post | Teflon tape |
FAQs
1. Can a bathtub drain stopper be replaced?
Yes, a bathtub drain stopper can definitely be replaced, and for most homeowners, it’s one of the easier bathroom DIY fixes. The good news is that most stoppers are fairly universal, meaning you can usually find a replacement that will thread right into your tub drain without having to change the entire drain assembly. Typically, you’ll just need to remove the old stopper, clean the area underneath, and then install the new one. Replacement stoppers come in several styles — lift-and-turn, push-pull, toe-touch, pop-up, and trip-lever — so the key is identifying what type you already have. Once you know, you can buy either the exact same model or a universal kit that fits most 1-1/2 inch bathtub drains. The installation process usually involves just unscrewing the old unit and screwing in the new one, with maybe a little adjustment to get the right height for a good seal.
2. How to take out a drain stopper in a tub?
The first step in removing a drain stopper is figuring out which type you’re dealing with, because the method depends on the design. If it’s a lift-and-turn stopper, you’ll usually twist the top knob and then check for a hidden set screw on the side of the post. Push-pull and toe-touch stoppers often just twist off counterclockwise at the cap, and then you can unthread the post underneath. For a pop-up stopper, sometimes the cap spins freely, so you may need to hold the outer rim with pliers or insert a flathead screwdriver into the slot to get it to engage. If your tub has a trip-lever setup, the stopper isn’t removed from the drain at all — instead, you remove the overflow plate on the wall of the tub and pull the plunger assembly straight out. In all cases, go slow, look for screws or hidden slots, and use cloth-wrapped tools to protect the finish.
3. Is it hard to replace a bathtub drain?
Replacing just the stopper itself is usually not hard at all — most people can handle it in under ten minutes once they identify the stopper type. However, if you’re talking about replacing the entire drain flange (the part that sits in the tub and connects to the pipe underneath), that’s a bit more involved. To do it properly, you’ll need a special tool called a drain key or sometimes a smart dumbbell wrench. You’ll use that to unscrew the flange from the drain body. Before installing the new flange, you usually roll plumber’s putty into a rope and press it under the rim to create a watertight seal, though some manufacturers call for silicone instead (Source: Angi, 2025, Read the article). Then you tighten the new flange into place, clean up the excess putty, and reinstall the stopper. It takes more time and care, but it’s still considered a manageable DIY job for most homeowners who are comfortable with basic plumbing work.
4. How much does it cost to replace a bathtub drain stopper?
The cost depends on what exactly you’re replacing. If you just need to swap out the stopper itself, it’s usually pretty affordable. Basic replacement stoppers typically cost under $20, and even higher-end models with decorative finishes or brand-specific designs are usually under $40. If you need a full waste-and-overflow kit (which includes the overflow plate, linkage, gaskets, and sometimes the drain flange), you’ll probably spend anywhere from $40 to $100, depending on brand and finish. Hiring a plumber to do the work is, of course, more expensive. Labor rates vary by location, but you might expect anywhere from $100 to $200 for a simple stopper replacement, and more if the flange or entire drain assembly needs changing. So the most cost-effective option for many homeowners is to identify the stopper type, pick up a replacement at the hardware store, and spend a few minutes doing it yourself.
5. What to do if a tub drain won’t unscrew?
If your tub drain stopper won’t unscrew, don’t panic — this happens a lot, and there are usually a few simple reasons. First, check to see if there’s a hidden set screw holding it in place. Many lift-and-turn stoppers have a tiny screw on the side of the post or underneath the cap. You’ll need a small flathead or Allen wrench to loosen it. If you don’t see a screw, the threads may just be stuck due to mineral buildup or old sealant. In that case, a few drops of penetrating oil at the base can help. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes before trying again. Always use steady, controlled force instead of yanking hard. Wrap plier jaws with a cloth to avoid scratching the finish. If you’re dealing with a pop-up stopper that just spins freely, lift it slightly and engage the slot with a screwdriver or hold the rim while turning. If none of these tricks work, it’s worth calling a plumber rather than risking damage to your drain。
Leave a comment
This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.